The department of Ariège nestles in the Pyrenees, next to Andorra, its highest peaks visible from Toulouse. It is one of the least populated, most unspoiled regions of France, whose inhabitants have held fast to their traditions. Numerous species of butterflies, orchids and raptors thrive here thanks to the endurance of ancient farming practices such as the transhumance.

Far from the centres of power, Ariège has always served as a refuge: for prehistoric man who sheltered in the many caves, for the cathar heretics who defied the Church, and for resistance fighters, refugees and downed WWII pilots who eluded the Nazis to escape over the mountains into Spain.

The countryside is wild but easily accessible. Top grade trout streams rush down forested mountainsides into rivers where kayakers paddle. Way marked walking trails lead to 3000 metres peaks where isards (chamois), wild sheep and even bears roam. Cyclists can take in a stage of the Tour de France, mountain bike down tracks or gently pedal in the valleys.

And in winter, skiers enjoy the uncrowded pistes or strap on "raquettes" to hike the snow-covered mountain trails.

The Ariege attracts visitors from all over Europe as well as further afield, many come to Ariège in summer to enjoy walking, cycling, horse riding and fishing in unspoiled surroundings. The summer of the year, but it never feels crowded. For many people, September and October are the best months: warm and sunny, and you have the forest trails to yourself. In winter the ski stations are busy, and you can rent snowshoes to explore the mountains. March is the start of the fishing season, which runs until early September. In April the first kayaks and rafts appear on the rivers swollen with snowmelt, while May and early June are the best times to see wildflowers and orchids in bloom.

Summer: June is very warm, even hot depending on the climate you come from. July and August can get quite hot--hats and sunscreen are essential when hiking or cycling. Beware of violent thunderstorms when in the mountains. Try to go into towns in the morning when the heat is less intense.

Autumn: Generally beautiful, dry sunny weather until late October, when the mornings have a touch of frost. Often rainy in November with snow falling at the highest elevations. The autumn foliage is warm and bronzey.

Winter: This season used to have more consistent weather: cold and snowy. In the past decade snowfall has decreased and the Pyrenees regularly enjoy long stretches of very mild temperatures (10-20° C/ 60-75° F), especially in February and at medium elevations (500-1000 m). The ski stations are well-equiped with snow cannons and have been extended to higher altitudes. The sunny winter weather is wonderful for walking in the woods, where the leafless trees let through the warm rays. You can rent raquettes (snowshoes) to hike at higher elevations. Middle elevations will feel warmer than the valleys. Be careful of black ice on roads in the river valleys. It's prudent to bring chains.

Spring is the season with the least predictable weather. April can see long stretches of cold, rainy days followed by glorious sun and mild temperatures. The sun is more reliable the second half of May but hikers may still encounter snow at high elevations.